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DIY question. Door threshold.

So been learning a huge amount of DIY since buying a house a year ago that turned into even more of a renovation project that we realised. Having never even painted anything other than a fence before, I'm pretty proud of myself have done everything from small bits of plastering, restoring original wooden doors and architraves, fitting laminate flooring, fitting and painting built in wardrobes (my joiner uncle did the hard bits on that) I've even done some simple electrical stuff. 

Anyway humble brag over. There is one question I can't seem to get a definitive answer to. We are finally getting around to carpeting the master bedroom. I want to fit a nice oak threshold (not a T-bar) to the doorway rather than have a carpet joiner metal strip thing. It's an interior door threshold, carpet to carpet. I have the nice oak threshold and am fine cutting it to size and using a multi tool to cut away the door jam at the right height.

My question is how do I secure the threshold to the floorboards?

I've watched some videos and read some instructions but they all say something different. I don't have a nail gun but that seems to be the most common way, is it possible to do without buying one? Could I nail by hand and use a nail punch to get the nail heads below the surface? Do I need to drill pilot holes to stop the oak splitting? 

Other things I've read has said that won't secure it well enough and I should use screws? I really don't want the heads on show even if I do countersink them..

Then for either option if I fill the holes with a wood filler won't that show up when I stain the wood? Even if I use a coloured filler?

Can I cheat and just use no more nails to glue it down or will that cause problems down the line?

Has anyone done this before?


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Comments

  •  Screw it down, cover the holes and remember you should not be able to see the threshold when you close the door. 
  •  Screw it down, cover the holes and remember you should not be able to see the threshold when you close the door. 
    Thanks.

    Cover the holes with what? 

    Why shouldn't you be able to see it? I was making the threshold the same width as the door frame which is wider than the door itself. Is that a problem? I was copying how it's done at my inlaws house.
  • Best way to do it, is buy a countersink bit -

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-countersink-12-7-x-70mm/86157?tc=CA8&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=CjwKCAjw3ueiBhBmEiwA4BhspFN2IoONUnF06deEneUu_VgpecwKpicL-0awQ2TN76ZMqXWh2nuYQRoCXccQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


    Srew it to the floorboards, then plug the hole with oak plugs, size corresponding to that of the hole (8mm or 10mm). You can buy then online.

    Bloody shame because I could've cut o load up in my workshop in France and posted em to you, but in UK now
  • where here did you buy the oak threshold bar from? What is their view? Do they sell cover plates to go on top of the counter sink fixings?
  •  Screw it down, cover the holes and remember you should not be able to see the threshold when you close the door. 
    Thanks.

    Cover the holes with what? 

    Why shouldn't you be able to see it? I was making the threshold the same width as the door frame which is wider than the door itself. Is that a problem? I was copying how it's done at my inlaws house.

    Not a problem, most wooden thresholds are wider. If you go into someone's house and you can see those Chrome/Brass thresholds when the door is closed they havent been fitted properly
  • Gribbo said:
    Best way to do it, is buy a countersink bit -

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-countersink-12-7-x-70mm/86157?tc=CA8&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=CjwKCAjw3ueiBhBmEiwA4BhspFN2IoONUnF06deEneUu_VgpecwKpicL-0awQ2TN76ZMqXWh2nuYQRoCXccQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


    Srew it to the floorboards, then plug the hole with oak plugs, size corresponding to that of the hole (8mm or 10mm). You can buy then online.

    Bloody shame because I could've cut o load up in my workshop in France and posted em to you, but in UK now
    Oak plugs is a good idea i'll buy some
  • Gribbo said:
    Best way to do it, is buy a countersink bit -

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-countersink-12-7-x-70mm/86157?tc=CA8&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=CjwKCAjw3ueiBhBmEiwA4BhspFN2IoONUnF06deEneUu_VgpecwKpicL-0awQ2TN76ZMqXWh2nuYQRoCXccQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


    Srew it to the floorboards, then plug the hole with oak plugs, size corresponding to that of the hole (8mm or 10mm). You can buy then online.

    Bloody shame because I could've cut o load up in my workshop in France and posted em to you, but in UK now
    Oak plugs is a good idea i'll buy some
    I prefer rubber - easier to clean. Let me know if you need a link.
  • A picture might help @cantersaddick

    Screws not always best bet. Lots of very good adhesives out there now.
  • A picture might help @cantersaddick

    Screws not always best bet. Lots of very good adhesives out there now.
    The devil's work
  • Gribbo said:
    A picture might help @cantersaddick

    Screws not always best bet. Lots of very good adhesives out there now.
    The devil's work
    Most professional floor layers use adhesives for most tasks now. It’s more the case of choosing the right one rather than not using it.
  • Sponsored links:


  • edited May 2023
    CT1
    Is the bollocks.
    My house is made of it...


    https://youtu.be/AoZuA0ATw4Y
  • Sounds like a dilemma. Just move house. 
  • Be wary you don't hit any central heating pipes running under the floorboards, if you do go down the nail gun route (or misjudge the length of your screws).  


  • edited May 2023
    Or router out and fit this to the underside of the oak?
    GoodHome DECOR 240 Wood effect Threshold (L)93cm | Tradepoint (trade-point.co.uk)
  • Use a cartridge adhesive, I use one called Flexfix by Rewmar we use it for fixing aluminium nosings on main staircases without the need to drill and plug also door bars, vinyl skirtings capping strips etc. Just make both surfaces are clean, CT1 will work never used it though. By the way I am a commercial flooring contractor. 
  • A picture might help @cantersaddick

    Screws not always best bet. Lots of very good adhesives out there now.
    Threshold hasnt actually been delivered yet so I would simply be taking photos of a gap with the old carpet once side (which I'll need to cut back so it fits - until I redecorate the hallway& landing and replace the carpet) and bare floorboards the other side as the carpet hasn't been installed yet.
  • Oh, and by the way, I sniff glue.
  • R0TW said:
    Oh, and by the way, I sniff glue.
    Going to come to a sticky end.
  • Solvent free Gripfill in the green tube or CT1, job done with no drilling or plugging 
  • Brownie12 said:
    Sounds like a dilemma. Just move house. 
    Moving house is quite straightforward.  In many ways, it's just like buying a football club... 
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  • Gribbo said:
    A picture might help @cantersaddick

    Screws not always best bet. Lots of very good adhesives out there now.
    The devil's work

    Defiantly screw and pellet and remembering to line up the  pellet and the strip. A craftsman job.  
    Adhesive are certainly easier but screws stay screwed. A mate of mine bought a new house and wanted to replace the  MDF skirting for wood, all glued on to the plaster board walls, (another cheap building method). An absolute mess to clear up before starting the job.  
  • Gribbo said:
    A picture might help @cantersaddick

    Screws not always best bet. Lots of very good adhesives out there now.
    The devil's work

    Defiantly screw and pellet and remembering to line up the  pellet and the strip. A craftsman job.  
    Adhesive are certainly easier but screws stay screwed. A mate of mine bought a new house and wanted to replace the  MDF skirting for wood, all glued on to the plaster board walls, (another cheap building method). An absolute mess to clear up before starting the job.  
    I always had Canters down as a defiant screwer…
  • Personally I'd pin (nail them), by hand is fine, get a punch to finish off. Also make sure no pipes underneath or nails short enough not to go right through. Not sure the bar would be that deep to counter sink and screw etc.
  • Thanks all.

    Spoken to someone who's advice I trust. I'm gonna use adhesive on it and then pin in each of the corners just to be sure as I'll have to slide it under the cut door jam so there's a risk of rubbing some of the adhesive off.
  • Thanks all.

    Spoken to someone who's advice I trust. I'm gonna use adhesive on it and then pin in each of the corners just to be sure as I'll have to slide it under the cut door jam so there's a risk of rubbing some of the adhesive off.
    When you say adhesive I hope you mean wood glue, if so Titebond is one of the best.

    Dont use most of the junk you find in DIY shops 
  • edited May 2023
    Thanks all.

    Spoken to someone who's advice I trust. I'm gonna use adhesive on it and then pin in each of the corners just to be sure as I'll have to slide it under the cut door jam so there's a risk of rubbing some of the adhesive off.
    When you say adhesive I hope you mean wood glue, if so Titebond is one of the best.

    Dont use most of the junk you find in DIY shops 
    There are many adhesives available now that far exceed “wood glue” capabilities. Personally I’d use CT1 

    https://www.toolstation.com/ct1-adhesive-sealant/p85802
  • Thanks all.

    Spoken to someone who's advice I trust. I'm gonna use adhesive on it and then pin in each of the corners just to be sure as I'll have to slide it under the cut door jam so there's a risk of rubbing some of the adhesive off.
    When you say adhesive I hope you mean wood glue, if so Titebond is one of the best.

    Dont use most of the junk you find in DIY shops 
    There are many adhesives available now that far exceed “wood glue” capabilities. Personally I’d use CT1 

    https://www.toolstation.com/ct1-adhesive-sealant/p85802
    I suggested CT1 or Gripfill at the beginning of the thread, I agree much better than wood glue or adhesive 


  • Surprised it’s available in white, was thinking just brown.
  • Have got some gripfill
  • Maybe load up the underside that will be the leading edge sliding under the door jam. You will probably get excess that needs to be cleaned up pretty promptly.
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