Was on a stag do in Berlin last weekend, and on Friday night 13 of us (all dressed up like birds in ridiculous 70s fancy dress gear) went to see Union Berlin, in the German 2nd tier. Never been to watch German football before, but (removing my emotional attachment to Charlton and the adrenaline/enjoyment that brings, and comparing the two from a purely objective perspective) have to say the experience of that game completely and utterly outshone any English game I've ever been to.
Don't know a lot of background but from what I've read and speaking to their fans at the game, they seem relatively comparable to us. Not particularly glamorous and not much money to chuck about, runners up in the cup once and runners up in the league once in the 1920s. Their ground has been recently rebuilt after it was set to be closed down cos it wasnt up to standard a few years back - this was predominantly funded / carried out by the supporters, spoke to one fan who was pointing at some of the steps and explaining that he built them himself. Holds about 18,000, 15,000 of which is new standing.
They are 8th in the 2nd tier, which has 18 teams, and were playing 7th. So it was a fairly insignificant, mid-table championship game, and not a local derby of any sort. Game was almost a sell out, and the atmosphere was absolutely superb. As you walk up to the ground pre-match you could hear the place was absolutely buzzing, sort of atmosphere you'd be lucky to get before a cup semi-final over here. Before the game they all hold scarfs up and hang these flags down from the stand. Then for the entire 90 minutes, non-stop, the crowd were singing with proper passion but not a sign of trouble. Obviously we stood out ridiculously with our fancy dress on but the fans were friendly, loads of them were coming over to us and asking us why we were at the game, who we supported in England (they thought Charlton were in the prem), telling us what to chant, shaking our hands etc etc. In the opposite corner, the away allocation was sold out, probably about 800-1000, again terracing and they were also bouncing about waving flags and making a right racket throughout the game.
Game was very average, quality wasn't great although on the plus side both teams passed it about and didn't lump it. Union won 1-0, and at the end nobody left the ground. The players then go round to each stand doing this post-match ritual thing where the supporters all wave their flags etc and go mad. If you'd walked in at the end and had a look you'd have thought they'd just clinched the title. Apparently they do it every week. Even if the game had been utterly dire and they'd lost 3-0, you'd still have a good time cos the atmosphere and experience is brilliant. Can move about and talk to randoms, everybody absolutely loves the club and there are blokes wandering up and down the gangways carrying beer kegs so you can just buy pints and drink during the game, none of the hassle of queuing at the bar for the entirety of half-time. And certainly no sitting freezing with booing and moaning and whining. Cost 13euros to get in the ground.
Probably sounds like a disaster in England being able to stand and drink freely overlooking the pitch, but for whatever reason it works there and felt completely safe. Been said before, but the FA could learn a lot from how it is out there. Would strongly recommend anyone, regardless of age or gender, to go down if they're ever over there. Was gutted to miss Carlisle, but this was a half decent consolation to get my football quota in for the weekend.
On a separate note, met a few other English fellas at the game, Watford fans, who referred to Powell as a Watford Legend. Just looked on wikipedia, he played 15 games for them. Tells you all you need to know.
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Ohhhhh! I need a cold shower and a cup of bromine I think. I've come over all unnecessary!
No thanks for reminding me that during my lifetime this Country has gone to the dogs !
( With apologies to our canine friends ).
does it tell you more about the people who go to watch football in the respective countries or the powers that run it? cos from what you're describing I know which scenario i'd choose over the other. the bit about blokes wandering up & down with beer kegs got me...imagine that in this country..no way they'd allow it..irresponsible, breach of H & S laws etc
Second time out in Berlin, night life is top notch, they proper go for it. Quite cheap as well cos Berlin's not a wealthy city.
The fact that it was the only stadium on our trip which took cash for beer and snacks rather than forcing you to 'invest' in a rip-off club card helped, too.
Which other games did you do while out there, if any? We were at Schalke's 0-0 draw with Larnaca in the Europa League the previous day, and watching Dortmund thump Wolfsburg 5-1 the following day (while Charlton put five past Preston back home).
I definitely want to get back over there for more games. My friend who came with me and I even discussed how we could go to Dusseldorf again, perhaps do another Fortuna game and then take in 2 or 3 entirely different clubs in the local area such as Cologne etc.
As you say though, over here many of the problems I have seen in grounds with ejections etc are where stewards/police are being unnecessarily anal about making people who are causing no harm or danger sit down etc. I guess the fact that people can stand if they want (which they obviously do, hence the only unsold spaces in the ground were a few of the 3,000 seats) means that there is no need for any of that unnecessary conflict.
Having said that, there was a net hung down in front of the stand, obviously to prevent things being thrown on the pitch, not that I saw any evidence of that.
It was a good weekend but I was in really bad company, should've gone with my mate Scott instead.
And good to see you were too busy to show your face today with good reason. Were not lying when you said you were 'doing a Scott' eh?
St Pauli's very much an "alternative" club - like FC Union, I believe (might explain your blonde friend, paulsturgess!) - but that's what makes it all the more fascinating. Worth a visit if you're ever in Hamburg, even if it's just to the club shop (sadly no longer in a graffiti-covered portacabin).
I'll second everything about Berlin nightlife, by the way, it's a terrific place. And if you're good at table football, the little bars off the Reeperbahn in Hamburg will suit you down to the ground...